Traveling with Vietnamese people

It's the last day of my week long trip to Singapore and Malaysia. It's been an...interesting one, to say the least. Interesting not because I got to see these modernized Southeast Asian country that are such a contrast from Vietnam, but mainly because I'm traveling on a tour with Vietnamese people. Traveling with Vietnamese people is--how can I put this politely--ummm...a lot of moments of asking the question, "What the hell is wrong with my people?" I'll just give case examples of why I will never, ever travel with my people ever again.

First of all, my people don't understand the notion of getting in line. There is a "me-first" mentality that is so frustrating and incredibly rude to other travelers. It's always the same. Everyone is in line, waiting, and then a Vietnamese tour group comes in. Without regard to any other groups around, the Vietnamese group will just rush to the front and push everyone else out of the way, while everyone else in line gives each other the "what-the-hell-is-wrong-with-these-people-face." And then when they do have to get in line, my people will loudly complain about having to get in line, comparing this injustice to being herded like a bunch of cattle.

Then, there is the matter of tasting the local cuisine. My absolute favorite aspect of traveling is sampling local foods. There is nothing better than to discover a new favorite dish in a foreign land. But, not Vietnamese people. Anything new tasting that is any detraction from the Vietnamese palette is immediately shunned. Travel agencies catering to Vietnamese know this, so the meals they book are ALL THE SAME (We've been literally eating the same variation of dishes for the past week..uggh). Whenever a local dish is served (which is rare), that dish is left untouched for being "wierd-tasting." But really, what can I expect from people who travel with a bagful of soy sauce, fermented fish sauce, and Vietnamese spices ready at every meal. I'm serious! On this tour, a few of the travelers complained that there wasn't any pho or Vietnamese noodles to eat...in Singapore.

The impracticality of how Vietnamese people dress is both an amusing and confusing sight. Normally, when traveling involves a lot of walking in 90+ degree weather, comfort is key. Comfortable walking shoes, light clothes, and obviously nothing to fancy because you'll sweat through it all anyways. But no, not Vietnamese people. Vietnamese women like to dress in their finest clothing--borderline formal dresses, heels, and a cake-spackled layer of makeup--which is all nice and all if it were for an evening out in town, not a trek up 200+ steps of stairs into mountain caves. And Vietnamese also like to stare at what you're wearing. Obviously from their stares of judgment at my ratty t-shirt, shorts, and comfortable flip flops, my clothes aren't exactly up to their fashion standard, but I'm not the one at risk of snapping my ankles while walking up steep stairs.

And the little Vietnamese kids on these tours are just horrible. On every tour I have been on, the kids that come along are spoiled rotten and shockingly rude. They scream, hit, and throw tantrums whenever they can't get what they want. Their parents only enable this behavior by catering to their every want and desire. I just look on, horrified at their behavior and fight the urge to slap these little bastards myself. Like every other tour, this one is not without a little spoiled bastard itself. Today, this little kid threw a tantrum about a candy he dropped on the floor by demanding his family to pay him back. He proceeded to act out his tantrum by hitting everyone in his family and calling his aunt a "crazy lady." Of course, everyone catered to him (including other adults on the tour), made excuses for his behavior, and went over to comfort him.

Vietnamese tours are also structured around shopping, which means that the Singapore and Malaysia that I have experienced has been from the inside of malls, jewelery shops, and Chinese medicine shops. Our tour guides get a piece of the commission from they money made at these stops, so they try to fit in as many of these shops as possible into the schedule. I end up just standing there, bored out of my mind while watching Vietnamese women waste their money on fake diamonds and rubies.

And then, there are the really ridiculous comments that Vietnamese people often state as fact. A sample below:

An old man explaining to us how the birds at a bird show in Singapore are trained:
-"Those birds in the show are fed drugs so that they can become addicted and perform those tricks."
Thinking to myself--Uhh..maybe in Vietnam, but not here dude.

Old woman picking at a plate of omelettes and fried rice:
-"Where is the pho and hu tieu for breakfast?"

Vietnamese "models" commenting on the dress of Muslim women:
-"I wonder why they cover themselves up like that. They actually have good figures, unlike Vietnamese women who don't cover up but have fat spilling out everywhere."
(This one was actually pretty funny).

Hating on other Vietnamese tour groups:
-"Uggh...they're Northerners. Damn dogs and monkeys. I wish the Americans would just go into the north and bomb them all."

Watching a group of Muslim children on a field trip:
-"Wow, they really go to school early here huh? I wonder if they also learn terrorism in school."

Our tour guide warning us about potential dangers:
-"It is high season, so watch out for pick-pocketers. Specifically, watch out for Indonesians who sneak into this country to steal. Also, watch out for the covered women in burqas."
(You can just hear the gasps of agreement coming from the Vietnamese tourists after we were warned of these "dangers")

A lot of the time I wanted to so badly throttle someone across the bus. Good thing, I had my buddy Tran with me on this tour to relieve some of the frustration by laughing at the ridiculousness of our people. There sure was a ton of that on this tour.

Vietnamese people crowded around to learn how to ride the subway in Singapore
Of all places they took us to--a cowboy town in Malaysia because us Americans went all the way over to Malaysia to learn about cowboys.

I just love their enthusiasm. I only wish we shared the same.
Taken with our tour guide, Tony. The guy ran, accidentally shoving an old woman out of the way to make sure that he got on the monorail with the tour group. Now that's dedication.

Night Scenes from Singapore

The night skyline in Singapore is gorgeous. On our first night here, we took a boat ride on the Singapore River which took us through downtown, past all the high rises that give Singapore that special sparkle at night. It was SUCH a nice break from the smog and congestion of Saigon. SUCH A BREAK to smell clean air and ride on a boat without the waft of sewage blowing in my face.

The architecture in Singapore is quite interesting--a durian-shaped theater, a huge ship constructed atop three connected buildings, and a half lion/mermaid creature overlooking the river, to name a few. I'm sure my pictures don't do it justice at all because for one, I suck at taking pictures and the other, (sorry for saying it) you have to see it yourself. Singapore really has one of the world's prettiest and interesting skylines.

Singapore and Malaysia!

In Singapore, then Malaysia in a few days. Don't know how my internet access will be so I might not update for a few days. Have a nice week everyone!

Country amusements

Amusing oneself in the countryside requires an adventurous nature, a lot of imagination, and an openness to dirt. Sure, country life doesn't carry the same amusements as in the city--there are no clubs, good restaurants, or any sort of boisterousness that often defines a youth well spent--but, kids here do know how to entertain themselves. They make use of the wide open space of the natural environment and make their own fun.

Dressed in clothing to cover myself from mosquito bites and equipped with my camera, I went on a country adventure with my cousin and his friend to learn a little about making the most fun out of my surroundings.

The crux of our adventure began as a hunt for grasshoppers. Here, my cousin and his friend (in the green shirt) are searching for those green buggers in the long grass stalks that line the rice fields. (My cousin's friend, I just found out, is also a relative of mine. Such a country scenario to find out that a stranger you just met also shares some familial connection to you. )

Luckily, grasshoppers are in abundance in these parts and we were able to catch a few.
While busily trying to document the capture of these guys, my green-shirted, distant relative caught a small crab in the rice fields. These crabs used to be plentiful, but over-catching has made them somewhat rare now.

What really amazes me about country kids is how much they know about their natural environment. I mean, we grow up around trees and all sorts of botany back home, but it's not as if we know their name, how they grow, or unique qualities about these plants. But here, they know every plant name, its use, and even more, how to have fun with these plants. My cousin was pointing out all sorts of plants and teaching me interesting tidbits about them....like these plants that when touched, close up.

In the video, my cousin tells me that they are called "shy plants" in Vietnamese. (Also, if you hear a lady's voice in the background, it is the provincial radio that is turned on every single day at 5 am and 5 pm. Now, that's how brainwashing works)

These plants, when dry, can function as exploding poppers when thrown in the water.

I learned that if you eat the young leaves from tamirind trees, you can sort of taste that unique soury/sweetness of a tamirind fruit.
This little trick was my favorite. A flower transformed into a pretty lantern.

Voila!

On our little adventure, I saw this poor little chicken with a twisted foot. Every time it took a step, it let out this pitiful, little cry. Poor little guy. It was really hard to watch.
The country might not offer the same excitements as the city, but really, who needs that when you can have a country adventure against this backdrop with the sound of the wind sweeping through the rice fields.

Hanoi vs. Hue vs. Saigon

Now that I have visited all three major cities that make up Vietnam’s north, central, and southern regions, I think it’s only right to add to the resentment felt by each city toward the others by determining which one is better—Hanoi, Hue, or Saigon. One is the capital city where all power is centralized, the other is where Vietnam’s historic and intellectual roots run deepest, and the city to the south is the economic heartbeat of the entire nation. Who will come out on top?

Using broad generalizations based on only a few days of visits, stereotypes, personal bias, and an arbitrary point system, I will finally put this debate to rest.

Energy
Every city has a certain “energy” to it. It can either electrify you with its zooming traffic and modern vices or lull you into a sleepy pace. This energy is unique to each city and is the determining factor to whether or not it if fitting to your own personal energy. Hanoi, Hue, and Saigon all run on a distinct energy that is the result of their location, history, economy, and people.

Once the capital of all of Indochina under the French and the current one under Vietnam’s communist government, it is difficult not to feel the authority this important city carries. All important governmental organizations and decisions are centered here. In cities such as these, there is always an air of stuffiness. Hanoi emits an energy of subtle restraint that exudes from the way people speak, dress, and conduct themselves. People speak very politely (though their thoughts may differ) and are always dressed properly here, despite the overbearing heat. The architecture, left over from the French, gives the city a sense of “chic-ness” that would be commonly associated with Paris. And because French influence is found all over the city, there is a sort of romantic mood to it that is quite charming and if not for the flurry of motorbikes and Vietnamese signs, can be mistaken for any other city in France.

Saigon’s enery is a stark contrast to Hanoi. Saigon is basically New York, but 10x more exciting, 20x noisier, 30x more congested, and 40x more polluted. Saigon is a fast city—of fast traffic, fast money (it is the economic powerhouse of Vietnam), and fast people. Saigon is anything but subtle restraint. No one waits for anyone here and they are not shy to tell you so in colorful words. The style of dress is loud, a sort of ghetto-fabulous with a Vietnamese twist. The constant boom of construction gives this city an impression of constant development. The city is ever-expanding, adding new districts and high rises to give room to an expanding upper class with so much money amidst so much poverty. Saigon’s energy is the sort of energy found in the world’s economic capitals, with all its glories, temptations, and downsides.

Hue, the often forgotten middle child overshadowed by its more glamorous sisters. Unlike Hanoi and Saigon, Hue’s energy doesn’t emit authority or fast exhilaration. Rather, Hue is more of a sleepy city, moving at a slow pace similar to the flow of Hue’s famous Perfume River. The sleepiness of Hue lends to a relaxed mood that is made apparent by the slower traffic and the pace at which people move. Also once the center of Vietnam’s Nguyen dynasty, the historical roots unique to Vietnam gives this city a more traditionally Vietnamese feel than its more modern siblings to the north and south.

Winner: Hue, for its relaxed ambiance and firm grasp of history and tradition (+1)
(-)Hanoi’s air of restraint can feel a bit suffocating and uppity/ Saigon’s nonstop pace and congestion gets really tiring.

Architecture/Scenery
As mentioned, Hanoi’s architectural layout is very similar to that of a French city. Narrow streets balanced with grand, tree-lined boulevards, and tiny parks dotted all over the city, Hanoi is Paris with a Vietnamese twist. It is difficult not to become enamored by the architecture in this city. It has that old world feel and charm of a French city. There are also a lot of historical buildings still standing, dating far back in time--Vietnam’s first university, old temples, and buildings integral to Vietnam’s mythical beginnings. A walk around Hanoi really is a walk through Vietnam’s pre-modern history. The scenery around Hanoi is lovely and has been the focus of many poetry and songs, all of which discuss the beauty of this ancient city. There are many trees and parks scattered throughout the city, giving the city a sense of calm amidst the chaos of the city. The areas around the many river banks that run through Hanoi are especially beautiful. Around evening time, when the sun is just about to set, people come out and sit along river banks to catch the rare breezes that come by. This lovely scene took me back to no other place than the Seine River in Paris.



As charming and beautiful the architecture is in Hanoi, Saigon is not. Sorry, not to hate BUT Saigon is not pretty. My mom told it used to be pretty back in her time, before war, before all the construction, and before the population ballooned to an unsustainable size. Saigon was originally designed to contain 500,000 people. Today, it is home to over 5 million people. One district in Saigon is bigger than all of Hanoi. It is huge and constantly expanding by opening up new districts in areas that were once populated by nothing but jungle. There are construction sites all over Saigon and modern high rises sprouting in the midst of old, dilapidated homes. Sure, this is a sign of Vietnam’s economic development, but it has come at a cost of congestion and pollution. The pollution is AWFUL. Scenic sites in Saigon? Maybe I’m just ignorant, but nothing special comes to my mind.

Hue has the royal citadel. Enough said. It is a gorgeous complex and with a calmness that allows one’s imagination to run far with recreations of life under the Nguyen dynasty. Hue’s Perfume River is also gorgeous. The river bank has maintained that “naturalness” of a river environment by preserving the trees and long grass stalks that line the river. Around evening, with the sun hitting the water, the Perfume River (and the city) is just breathtaking.


Winner: I love the French charm of Hanoi (+3)

People

Friendliness
In terms of friendliness, I would rank Hanoi at the bottom, Hue in the middle, and Saigon at the top. The rudest situations I have experienced so far were in Hanoi. People there didn’t really appreciate my southern accent and I had a lot of trouble understanding the northern accent, so there were some moments of miscommunication. What I have noticed is that while the northern accent can sound extremely polite, when it can sound rude and mean, it is very rude and mean.
I can’t understand central Vietnamese accents at all. It is like another language to me. But, it sounds really pretty, so everyone I spoke to there sounded very nice. They could insult me to my face and it would still sound pretty.

Saigon has the friendliest people. Southern Vietnamese are stereotyped as being carefree, fun-loving, and open people. Of course, this stereotype has its negatives, like our inability to prioritize, our laziness, and our spendthrift habit. And, I can actually understand what they are speaking. Plus, my family is from here so that beats everything

Winner: Saigon, mainly because my family is from here. (+4)

Attractiveness
I wouldn’t even have this category if it weren’t for all the beautiful people I saw in Hanoi. Because seriously, Hanoi is full of good-looking people—girls and guys. First of all, northern people are of a MUCH taller build than the south. Secondly, people in Hanoi have a chic sense of style. Part of it is the proximity to all the government organizations, so the style of dress is more restrained and professional. Guys in tailored suits riding on motorbikes. Sigh. I was really distracted in Hanoi. Hue and Saigon (especially) cannot compare.

Winner: Hanoi (+5)

Food
Hanoi: Dog meat is common fare here, so NO. And, their pho sucks.
Hue: I do love central Vietnamese food—bun bo hue, banh uot, banh bop loc comes to mind, for example, but…
I grew up on Southern food and Saigon is home to the best Southern Vietnamese cooking in the world, so no competition. Saigon may not be the prettiest city, but the food. Gosh, the food is to die for. Eating out is always an adventure and a good place to pig out is a stone’s throw away.

Winner: Saigon (+10)

Weather
It is hot all over Vietnam, but each city has its own type of heat. The heat is awful in Hanoi. Literally, it feels like walking through an oven. When I was there, it was over 100 degrees and the humidity…It really felt like I was walking through a sauna. It’s the type of heat that suffocates, stays on you, and tires you out. No matter how many showers I took or applications of deodorant I put on, the constant sweating made me reek of BO all day. Awful, awful.
Hue, like all of Central Vietnam, has dry heat. Somewhat more bearable than Hanoi, this type of heat doesn’t stay on you. I am used to this type of heat, so while it was as hot as Hanoi, I was able to withstand it. However, the sun BURNS. This type of sunshine beats you down and periods longer than 30 minutes spent under the sun, uncovered by layers of clothing will surely leave you with a nasty burn.

I thought weather was awful in Saigon, but really, it isn’t as extreme as either Hue or Hanoi. It is hot and humid, but relatively moderate compared to the other two cities. I could go outside around 12-2, when the heat is at its worse and still feel alright, not worn out like I felt in Hanoi and Hue. The only downside is the pollution, which only smells worse in the summer heat, like heated garbage.

Winner: Saigon, for its relatively bearable weather (+2).
I will reiterate, humidity in Hanoi is AWFUL…just for that (-1) Hanoi.

Pollution/ Air Quality
Saigon is the sure loser when it comes to pollution. The air quality is awful. Every time I am outside, I feel like I am suffocating on smoke. If I spend a day out in Saigon, I always come back home having felt as if I smoked a cigarette. There are just too many motorbikes in Saigon, millions more than the city has capacity for, and each one emitting too much smog into the air. After I take a ride on a motorbike, no matter how short the ride may be, I always wash my face when I come home because if I don’t, I can scratch a layer of black dirt. This is not to mention the pollution that is everywhere. The streets are just full of trash, minus Saigon’s city center. When it rains, sewage flows out into the street, filling the air with a putrid stench. No other city I have been to in Vietnam has pollution as bad as Saigon.

Hanoi doesn’t suffer as much from pollution and poor air quality as Saigon. For one, Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam so for sure the government pours in a lot of money to the ongoing maintenance and cleanliness of the city. Hue doesn’t have as much money pouring in from the government to keep up with cleanliness, but for a big city in Vietnam, it was pretty clean. Not as clean as Hanoi, however.

Winner: Hanoi (+1) and for the pollution in Saigon (-5)

Traffic
The narrow streets of Hanoi are really not conducive to traffic. A traffic jam on a street in Hanoi prevents cars from either way from getting through, literally leaving everyone stuck with nowhere to move. Driving a car around Hanoi most certainly result in traffic tickets because there is no space for parking.

Traffic in Saigon can get really chaotic. I have been stuck in the middle of traffic hour and I must say, it is a scary experience. Every motorbike is trying to get through and no one is willing to compromise, so you see all these cars just running at each other from every direction, until they all reach the middle and are stuck wriggling their way out. Cars are also becoming really popular in Saigon, making traffic in the city even worse than what it is. Despite the chaos, traffic jams are not as bad as in Hanoi because streets in Saigon are very wide so while everyone struggles to get through, they all eventually do. In Hanoi, they’re just stuck.

Hue is less populated and the streets are wide, so traffic here is nothing compared to either Hanoi or Saigon.

Winner: Hue, better traffic also means less accidents. (+1)

Nightlife:
I honestly wasn’t in Hanoi and Hue long enough to experience any nightlife. But, I can’t imagine them comparing to Saigon. I read somewhere that Saigon is becoming the new Bangkok. I wouldn’t argue with that because a simple motorcycle ride through Saigon at night is to take a glimpse into Vietnam’s #1 party city. There is a whole block dedicated to Karaoke bars and an entire district known for its beer restaurants. And unlike Hue and Hanoi, Saigon is much more liberal and carefree, an influence that locals say was left behind by American soldiers that were once stationed here. Whether it is a night out to eat at the many food stands that remain open late for partiers or to party the night away, Saigon is the city to go.

Winner: Saigon (+4)

So, the overall winner: Surprise, surprise…the winner is Saigon! Just for the food and the people, Saigon outranks the other two cities. This is the city where my mom grew up, where history determined my parents’ fate, and where my relatives still reside. Despite its ever-changing landscape and the awful pollution, Saigon really holds a special place in my heart.

Songs from Hue

Hue is known for many things--where Vietnam's royal Nguyen dynasty once reigned, bun bo hue (Hue's answer to pho), well-made conical hats, and...folk singing. This type of folk music is unique to Hue and was once reserved only for royalty. Today, it is mainly performed for the ears of tourists. I was lucky to catch a performance from very skilled singers and instrumentalists on a boat, while riding along Hue's famous Perfume River at night. Even though I have no idea what the singers are singing about (the central accent is like another language), I still found it very pretty, like birds singing. Enjoy!

The prettiest town of them all...

Hoi An is unlike any other city in Vietnam. It certainly has its own distinct look, rhythm, and ambiance, all of which creates this sort of quiet charm that is difficult to not become enchanted by.

Hoi An was once a major trading port along the Silk Road, bringing in traders from all over Europe and Asia. This past is reflected in mix of influences in architecture and the large number of international visitors that still flock to this city every day.

The architecture in Hoi An is its most distinctive feature. A fusion of Japanese, Chinese, Vietnamese, and French, it is quite difficult to not walk through Hoi An and stop every few steps just to admire at the uniqueness of every building.
What I really love about the architecture in Hoi An is the faded facades that decorate every building, giving the entire town an old world feel. Faded yellow is an especially popular color here. Around evening, when the sun is about to set, the whole town is illuminated to a golden yellow.
Paper flowers cascading from windows add to the sweet charm of this town. The local economy is centered around artisanry that caters to the booming tourism industry here. The artisanry found here is a leftover of its days as a major trading port. You can find very high quality handmade clothes, tourist knick-knacks, incense, furniture, etc. and watch it made in the process...This man is carving a special type of tree that can't burn (forgot the name) to make into furniture.
Hoi An is especially famous for its handmade silk lanterns. Nowhere else in Vietnam can you find lanterns as finely made than in Hoi An.

Shoes....It is hard not to come by a shoe store in Hoi An. They're on every street, in addition to an entire block dedicated to handmade shoes. Handmade! I was so enthralled with purchasing a pair (or more) of handmade sandals and cute leather boots. Usually, you come in a store, select from the hundreds of styles (all up to date to the most modern of European fashion, of course), have your feet measured, and the very next day...voila! Your very own handmade pair of cute sandals. UNFORTUNATELY, I was only in Hoi An for a few hours and didn't have time to place an order.

Handmade sandals run about 200,000 dong ($10). Very cheap considering the craftsmanship put into customizing every pair.

In addition to custom made shoes, there are hundreds of tailors in Hoi An that can whip up an outfit in a number of hours, custom fitted to your body for a third of the price one would pay back home. And because Hoi An is an international town, the fashions on display here are geared toward Western tastes (mainly European). Hoi An really is a shopper's paradise. I was beating myself up for not being able to stay in Hoi An longer.

A walk through Hoi An's old town is like a walk into a place captured in time. Because of very strict restoration laws and having been completely untouched by the ravages of war, Hoi An remains relatively as it was during its heyday. This is very rare in Vietnam, where rapid development is changing the landscape of the entire country (which has been especially unkind to precious historical sites).

Hoi An also succeeds where many tourist towns in Vietnam fail--it is able to capitalize on the tourism but not become captured by it. Hoi An doesn't feel touristy even though foreigners may outnumber locals in the street. This is because Hoi An has always been an international city, so the shops and international flair is only fitting given its history.

A visit to Hoi An is necessary when in Vietnam. A few days walking through its old town, through narrow alleyways, lounging along the river bank is a really nice way to escape the hustle and bustle that Vietnam is becoming. I wish I had more time there to explore and absorb the charming ambiance of this sweet little town.

These schoolchildren I passed were just too cute. They were yelling out "Hi-lo! Hi-lo!" to all the passerbyers.
Sun setting over the river. Sigh. Bye Hoi An.

Pho 91

This post is a shout out to my aunt, Ut Hang, who told me to eat at Pho 91 when I'm in My Tho. And of course me, being one to always listen to my elders, I did. From her food memories (of which she has many!), Pho 91 was the spot in My Tho to slurp down a good bowl of pho.
Were her food memories correct or only exaggerated to match her intense nostalgia for the motherland?
Ever since I ate at Pho Le (of which I wrote a rave review for in a previous post), no other bowl of pho compares. But, it was still good. The broth was sweet. The only setback was the meat, which was a bit too tough for my taste. Overall, a pretty delicious bowl of pho. Back in the States, this place would be ranked a 9 out of 10. But here, with so many options and a good pho joint a stone's throw away, it is considered average. But, I am not really from here and come with an American longing for delicious pho restaurants, so I will give it an 8.

You were right then Ut! Thank you for the recommendation!

Previous Post: The Holy Grail of Pho

(I haven't been updating these past few days because I've been feeling under the weather. But I'm better and will try and update regularly from now on.)

Homesickness

I miss the smell of corn, that sweet, earthy aroma of an uncooked corn still covered in its husk that always remind me of summers spent wasting the time away sitting outside, eating cob after cob of corn. I miss last summer, driving with Thuy in the summer heat to Gilroy to that one roadside grocery store we were so excited to find to purchase bagfuls of freshly picked corn…and the drive back, relishing in the delight of surprising our families with these bags of gold.

I miss hot summery nights spent gossiping with old friends back home in the dry heat of the Bay Area…spontaneous drives out to the beach…spending hours in the refuge of air-conditioned malls…those rare, quiet walks through Berkeley, past Strawberry Creek to the comfort of my tiny apartment. I miss home and the people that give home its meaning and depth of attachment.

I am homesick, the type that is suddenly felt on a bus ride through terrain that reminds me of the Bay Area or by listening to a song that stirs up old memories of sites and places and people that I love.

Sometimes I see something here and think, “___ would sure love that” or “Gosh, if only ___ was here with me to experience this. ___ would love it!” But then I turn around and it’s just me and my family. Not to diminish my fondness for my family here, but it’s not the same. I can’t share my snark and expect them to understand. I can’t point out cultural curiosities to them and have them laugh the same way I would. So, every new curiosity or interesting experience I keep locked up in my memory, in anticipation for my return home to share with the people who I know would appreciate these stories the most.

I always thought I had it in me to drop everything and just jet off to a faraway land and start over. That idea to start anew somewhere else was so alluring to me. I don’t know if this idea is a creation of a subconscious desire to escape from something (I don’t know what) in my present life, but that allure has always been so strong. Until now. Now that I am in a faraway country, away from the comfort of the world I am accustomed to, that romanticized image in my mind has slowly dissipated in the two month span I have been here.

Because, if there is anything I have learned in the past year, it’s how much my emotional health, my definition of personal contentment is intertwined with the support of the people around me--my biggest cheerleaders even through the worst of matches. I can’t be far from these people long to feel a twinge of emptiness. To not joke around with my closest friends, to not feel the safety of my dad’s embrace, to not be amused by my siblings’ quirks, to not hear the laughter of my little cousin…feels like an important part of myself is missing.

What I have realized here is that long periods of time spent away from home are not really the ideal for me. I do love travel, even alone, but I’d be lying if I said that traveling without the familiar around me doesn’t get lonely. While travel is often a personal experience, I wish there was a way to carry all the people I love inside my pocket, taking them along with me to the distant corners of the world to share, to laugh, and to exchange confused faces with at all my new travel experiences.

I really miss you guys…and the smell of corn.

How I most likely caught tapeworm

See, I love meat. A lot. A meal without meat doesn't taste quite as fulfilling to me. My mouth even waters when I see red meat at the supermarket (something I always remind my roommate, Amy, who looks at me with the what's wrong with you face I have come so accustomed to). But my love for meat has waned since I have been in Vietnam because after seeing how meat is sold and handled here, I am traumatized, to say the least.

Meat is sold outside, like everything else here. Placed on a bloody table in an outside market and hung on metal hooks, the rare meat is exposed to all the dust, smoke fumes from passing motorbikes, and just general dirtiness that is bountiful in in this country. The meat sold also sits in the tropical heat all day, with flies and all types of unseen bugs swarming all over.

Hot pile of cow stomach

Maybe even more unappetizing is how meat is handled. Passerbyers interested in a piece of meat just come up to the meat stand and poke, grab, and hold the meat. And it isn't just one person prodding, but a whole mess of people who don't even wash their hands before or after.
Of course, there are also animal parts on full display here that we don't normally find in the supermarket. As game as I usually am to try "exotic" foods, I think I'll save my cravings for cow tails, feet, and entrails for another day.


And the primary reason why I may become a vegetarian while here?
This meat market (and many others I have seen) doubly functions as a veterinary "hospital" for cats and dogs. YEAH....

Soothing my bites

Mosquito bites suck. They itch like crazy and of course, my lack of self-control and unnaturally thin skin has led to the total scarring of my legs. My family regularly asks me if I'm embarrassed by my scarred legs. Uhh..not really? And then they ask me again and again and even strangers I meet on the street ask me what happened to my legs. Of course, then, I'm starting to feel a bit self-conscious about them (but they itch so bad! and they don't look that bad to me). So to prevent further scarring and awkward questioning from family/strangers (which, btw, is such a Vietnamese thing to comment on others' embarrassing physical ailments, right in front of them), I've employed a new method:

Putting my Berkeley mind at work people...

Saigon by xe lam

A really cool way to see the city from a local's point of view is to take a ride on a xe lam. I'm not sure what they're called in English, but they're basically these little metal covered wagons that function as buses over here. People hop on and off of these (while still moving!) to get around the city. And when you want to get off, just knock on the roof of the bus and yell to the driver where you want to get off. The #46 goes to the center of Saigon and passes right by my family's place in District 8. Perfect. It's a neat, interesting way to go around the city and also very cheap--only 3,000 a ticket, less than 20 cents.

Travel conversations with my mom

Traveling with my mom is a learning experience...in patience. Here are just some of the typical conversations we usually have while traveling together:

Sightseeing on the bus:

Mom: Look, mountains.
Me: Yeah, I see them.
(a few moments later)
Mom: A river.
Me: uh huh.
Mom: fields.
Me: Got it.
Mom: Water buffaloes.
Me: Okay, I got it.
Mom: Houses...you see them?
Me: Yes, Mom, I see them! Geez...

Taking a picture:

Mom: You see that statue??! Take a picture of it.
Me: (looks at an ugly bronze statue)...I don't want to take a picture of it.
Mom: Take a picture!!
Me: I don't want to! It's ugly!
Mom: What's wrong with you?! Take a picture of it! If not, then take a picture of me with it.
Me: It's way to dark anyways. The sun is in the other direction.
Mom: Just take it!
(Mom stands next to the ugly statue)
Me: Well, at least smile. (takes picture)
Mom: Let me see it...(show her the picture)...That picture is ugly! Why is it so dark?
Me:......

Waiting:

Mom: It's almost time. Let's go down to the lobby and wait.
Me: We have like 20 minutes. Let's just sit here.
Mom: No! We're going to be late! You hear all the noise outside? It's everyone going down.
Me: I don't hear anything!
Mom: Let's go down!
Me: Okay!! Geez...
(go down to lobby and not a single soul is down there)
Me: I told you! We're way too early.
Mom: (shakes her head as if to disregard my remark)
Me: (frustratingly look at my hands for 10 minutes to pass the time)
Fellow tour traveler: (to my mom) Wow, you are always early!
Mom: (smiles in pride)
Me: (sigh to myself and go back to looking at my hands for another 10 minutes)

Nagging:

Mom: Wear your hat.
Me: I don't want to (because it'll mess up my hair)
Mom: Wear it! It's really sunny!
Me: I don't need it!
Mom: Yes, you do! You don't want to get burned!
Me: I'm not going to get burned.
Mom: You know, if your face gets burned it's going to become dark and your whole life will be ruined.
Me:.......

Mom: (on bus for a 3 hour ride) I need to go to the bathroom.
Me: You just went 10 minutes ago.

Mom: (in the hotel, snacking on fruits) My stomach hurts.
Me: Well, stop eating. It'll make it worse.
Mom: (continues eating)
Me: Stop eating!
(about 20 minutes later)
Mom: My stomach really hurts.
Me: Well, yeah. You finished that whole bag of fruits yourself.

Typical banter. But in all honestly, I really wouldn't appreciate traveling around Vietnam if I went with anyone else other than my mom. She's always surprising me with stories of certain places she's been to, filling in details of my family history, and looking after me to make sure I don't get my stuff stolen. Even though she irks me a lot with her nagging, her need to be 20 minutes early for everything, she's actually good company to have on this trip. Also, Tammy's gone and she's all I have here now. So yeah...I'll admit it if you're reading this...but miss you Tammy (You're still a loser, though).

(Mom, melting in the Vietnamese heat)

World Cup fever

Like nearly every other country in the world right now, Vietnam is in a frenzy over the World Cup. It's hard to walk anywhere at night and not hear those annoying vuvuzelas and wild cheers coming from the homes of millions of people hooked to the television sets to watch the game. You could ride around Saigon and know when a goal was made--the whole city literally erupts in cheers (minus the Paraguay vs North Korea game. That game was just painful to watch). The next day, it is common to hear people begin their morning greeting with, "Did you watch the game last night?"

It's all very interesting to me, as a complete outsider to this "football culture" that every country seems to be obsessed except our own. I will admit that I have become kind of sucked into it myself. I have been getting lessons on football rules from my cousin, Chanh, whose a football fanatic and whenever I can, try to stay up late to watch a game.

On this day, Argentina and Germany were playing and I happened to be in the middle of Saigon to catch a public viewing. Hundreds of people gathered at this field to watch on a big screen monitor.
Those willing to pay to park went inside the field to watch and those who didn't, stayed on their motorbikes to watch on the outside. I loved the fixed concentration they have on their faces.
The atmosphere was a celebratory one, with people of all kinds all bunched together to watch, mingle, and eat in between goals. It didn't really seem to matter which side people were cheering for (unless they were betting). It was more the gathering of people that lent to the fun mood.

With the World Cup ending soon, this World Cup fever is at its high point and all I can say is...Go Netherlands!

(I am currently in Central Vietnam with limited access to the internet so if I don't update, it's for that reason. Also, sneaky venues to getting on Facebook have been getting shut down so I haven't been able to go on for a while.)

Happy Fourth of July!

On this 4th of July, I would just like to say that I am glad to come from a country where bribery isn't the name of the game and a stable means of success, unlike other countries (ahem, ahem).

And a country with reliable access to toilet...and where the sewage system doesn't overflow into the streets every time it rains...with pretty decent customer service...where all my friends are...I'm feeling homesick guys. :P

Have a good (and safe) one and watch those fireworks for me!

(Taken at a famous temple in My Tho)

Clothes shopping in Saigon

I came here thinking that this was going to be a haven to buy cheap clothes, thinking that since everything seems to be made here nowadays, these clothes should be easy to find. This has not exactly been the case. The thing is that clothes made here for stores like Forever 21, Gap, or Northface are not sold here. Everything is shipped out to the U.S. and European countries, making it difficult and frustrating for people like my young cousins to find. What they do have here in abundance is clothes made here or imported from China.

And these clothes are...to put it lightly, not exactly my style. To put it bluntly (because who cares), they are tacky and borderline fugly. Too much crazy patterns, sparkles, ruffles, and of very poor quality. They're the clothes you find in those empty stores in that corner of Great Mall no one goes to named Diva or Fashion House. You pass by those stores thinking no one in their right mind would waste their money there, but you do see them at Grand Century rocking their outfits with an admirable level of confidence and high stiletto shoes. That is basically Vietnamese fashion in a nutshell--A crazy assortment of tackiness and a fierce sense of confidence that their outfit is the hottest to ever hit the block. I seriously saw a woman, in 100+ degree weather walk around Saigon in a long black velvet, low v-neck jumpsuit with white pleather 5-inch stilettos. Hair highlighted golden brown, a thick mask of makeup painted on her face--she was certainly a wonder to behold. How she managed to wear that thick jumpsuit in this awful heat left me confused, but her ability to walk around like the hottest shit around with makeup melting off her face is really admirable. I wish I had that self-confidence.

But, totally off-topic. Back to shopping. SO, I've been around to all different kinds of places trying to find some nice, cheap clothes. I've been to newly built malls with brand-name stores that sell American brands for inexorbitant prices (they have Papaya over here and a dress that would cost about $15 bucks over here cost $100 over there...ridiculous!) and outside markets that also charge a ridiculous amount (because I'm a foreigner) for some ugly, tacky clothes. I almost gave up shopping in Vietnam until my cousin, Vy, showed me two places for foreigners to shop for some cute and cheap finds.


Place #1--The Russian Market (Cho Nga)
I didn't know that Vietnam is home to a pretty sizable Russian population here (and in Russia), which is a remnant of Russia's Soviet Union past and its influence on Communist Vietnam, especially during the early days. The Russian Market represents this influence. Most of the sellers here have some connection to Russia, either having lived there and returned back to set up shop or they have relatives over there who send them merchandise from Russia. The merchandise sold here is made in Vietnam, but exported to Russia. Somehow (and possibly through illegal means), these merchandise got into the hands of these sellers and sold to Vietnamese (and Russian) locals living here.

What makes this market special is that it sells clothes more fitting to the Western style. The material of the clothes here is thicker and of better quality. This mall is a good place to shop for coats, especially real Northface (which are made in Vietnam) and Abercrombie and Fitch coats. Brand names are sold at a third of the price. I saw the exact same coat I bought from Abercrombie a few years ago for $150, sold here for around $30 bucks. Same coat, material, quality, and everything. The clothes here are also not that bad. I also bought a dress shirt for around $5. Bargaining is key. Pay only about 60-70% of the asking price.

The mall is relatively new, tucked away near a freeway, out of the touristy area so not much people know about it yet. Go there for deals on coats.

Place #2-Saigon Square
This place is shopping central for foreigners on the lookout for cheap clothes, knockoff designer purses, and shoes. Located near the center of the city, it was actually the home of the Russian Market a few years ago before the government moved the Russian Market to its new location. This place is just awesome. Sure, most of the "brand-name" are fake (and if real, it is stolen), but they sold very cheap. One thing on fake brand name clothes sold in Vietnam to keep in mind--I was told that companies like Gap that come here often have their designs sold to local sewing factories, who make the same thing with very similar material and sell it to foreigners at very low prices. Fake, then, doesn't mean bad quality. It's basically the same design and material, just not made by the company itself.

Like the Russian Market, it is set up like an inside flea market. For the claustrophobic, it can be a bit much. There are a crazy amount of people scrambling inside, most of which are tourists from Singapore, Philippines, and Malaysia, grabbing Kipling bags and bargaining over piles and piles of clothes. What I like about this place is that it not only has a good selection of cheap clothes, but the sellers here are a lot nicer than the ones catering to locals. Sellers catering to locals are awful and often yell at you when you bargain and don't buy. The ones here are a bit more patient, offer better customer service, and don't curse you when you leave their stall empty-handed.

Bargaining is also key here. The prices are generally cheap--$5 and below for shirts, shorts, and jeans. A bit more for designer knock-off purses and electronics. It is best to walk around and get a few for the prices of a certain item you like at more than a few stalls since they all basically seling the same merchandise.

So glad that my cousin showed me these places. I certainly know where to waste my Vietnamese money at now.

Russian Market
225 Ben Chuong Duong Street in District 1.

Saigon Square
At the intersection of Le Duan and Hai Ba Trung, right in downtown Saigon