The prettiest town of them all...

Hoi An is unlike any other city in Vietnam. It certainly has its own distinct look, rhythm, and ambiance, all of which creates this sort of quiet charm that is difficult to not become enchanted by.

Hoi An was once a major trading port along the Silk Road, bringing in traders from all over Europe and Asia. This past is reflected in mix of influences in architecture and the large number of international visitors that still flock to this city every day.

The architecture in Hoi An is its most distinctive feature. A fusion of Japanese, Chinese, Vietnamese, and French, it is quite difficult to not walk through Hoi An and stop every few steps just to admire at the uniqueness of every building.
What I really love about the architecture in Hoi An is the faded facades that decorate every building, giving the entire town an old world feel. Faded yellow is an especially popular color here. Around evening, when the sun is about to set, the whole town is illuminated to a golden yellow.
Paper flowers cascading from windows add to the sweet charm of this town. The local economy is centered around artisanry that caters to the booming tourism industry here. The artisanry found here is a leftover of its days as a major trading port. You can find very high quality handmade clothes, tourist knick-knacks, incense, furniture, etc. and watch it made in the process...This man is carving a special type of tree that can't burn (forgot the name) to make into furniture.
Hoi An is especially famous for its handmade silk lanterns. Nowhere else in Vietnam can you find lanterns as finely made than in Hoi An.

Shoes....It is hard not to come by a shoe store in Hoi An. They're on every street, in addition to an entire block dedicated to handmade shoes. Handmade! I was so enthralled with purchasing a pair (or more) of handmade sandals and cute leather boots. Usually, you come in a store, select from the hundreds of styles (all up to date to the most modern of European fashion, of course), have your feet measured, and the very next day...voila! Your very own handmade pair of cute sandals. UNFORTUNATELY, I was only in Hoi An for a few hours and didn't have time to place an order.

Handmade sandals run about 200,000 dong ($10). Very cheap considering the craftsmanship put into customizing every pair.

In addition to custom made shoes, there are hundreds of tailors in Hoi An that can whip up an outfit in a number of hours, custom fitted to your body for a third of the price one would pay back home. And because Hoi An is an international town, the fashions on display here are geared toward Western tastes (mainly European). Hoi An really is a shopper's paradise. I was beating myself up for not being able to stay in Hoi An longer.

A walk through Hoi An's old town is like a walk into a place captured in time. Because of very strict restoration laws and having been completely untouched by the ravages of war, Hoi An remains relatively as it was during its heyday. This is very rare in Vietnam, where rapid development is changing the landscape of the entire country (which has been especially unkind to precious historical sites).

Hoi An also succeeds where many tourist towns in Vietnam fail--it is able to capitalize on the tourism but not become captured by it. Hoi An doesn't feel touristy even though foreigners may outnumber locals in the street. This is because Hoi An has always been an international city, so the shops and international flair is only fitting given its history.

A visit to Hoi An is necessary when in Vietnam. A few days walking through its old town, through narrow alleyways, lounging along the river bank is a really nice way to escape the hustle and bustle that Vietnam is becoming. I wish I had more time there to explore and absorb the charming ambiance of this sweet little town.

These schoolchildren I passed were just too cute. They were yelling out "Hi-lo! Hi-lo!" to all the passerbyers.
Sun setting over the river. Sigh. Bye Hoi An.

Pho 91

This post is a shout out to my aunt, Ut Hang, who told me to eat at Pho 91 when I'm in My Tho. And of course me, being one to always listen to my elders, I did. From her food memories (of which she has many!), Pho 91 was the spot in My Tho to slurp down a good bowl of pho.
Were her food memories correct or only exaggerated to match her intense nostalgia for the motherland?
Ever since I ate at Pho Le (of which I wrote a rave review for in a previous post), no other bowl of pho compares. But, it was still good. The broth was sweet. The only setback was the meat, which was a bit too tough for my taste. Overall, a pretty delicious bowl of pho. Back in the States, this place would be ranked a 9 out of 10. But here, with so many options and a good pho joint a stone's throw away, it is considered average. But, I am not really from here and come with an American longing for delicious pho restaurants, so I will give it an 8.

You were right then Ut! Thank you for the recommendation!

Previous Post: The Holy Grail of Pho

(I haven't been updating these past few days because I've been feeling under the weather. But I'm better and will try and update regularly from now on.)

Homesickness

I miss the smell of corn, that sweet, earthy aroma of an uncooked corn still covered in its husk that always remind me of summers spent wasting the time away sitting outside, eating cob after cob of corn. I miss last summer, driving with Thuy in the summer heat to Gilroy to that one roadside grocery store we were so excited to find to purchase bagfuls of freshly picked corn…and the drive back, relishing in the delight of surprising our families with these bags of gold.

I miss hot summery nights spent gossiping with old friends back home in the dry heat of the Bay Area…spontaneous drives out to the beach…spending hours in the refuge of air-conditioned malls…those rare, quiet walks through Berkeley, past Strawberry Creek to the comfort of my tiny apartment. I miss home and the people that give home its meaning and depth of attachment.

I am homesick, the type that is suddenly felt on a bus ride through terrain that reminds me of the Bay Area or by listening to a song that stirs up old memories of sites and places and people that I love.

Sometimes I see something here and think, “___ would sure love that” or “Gosh, if only ___ was here with me to experience this. ___ would love it!” But then I turn around and it’s just me and my family. Not to diminish my fondness for my family here, but it’s not the same. I can’t share my snark and expect them to understand. I can’t point out cultural curiosities to them and have them laugh the same way I would. So, every new curiosity or interesting experience I keep locked up in my memory, in anticipation for my return home to share with the people who I know would appreciate these stories the most.

I always thought I had it in me to drop everything and just jet off to a faraway land and start over. That idea to start anew somewhere else was so alluring to me. I don’t know if this idea is a creation of a subconscious desire to escape from something (I don’t know what) in my present life, but that allure has always been so strong. Until now. Now that I am in a faraway country, away from the comfort of the world I am accustomed to, that romanticized image in my mind has slowly dissipated in the two month span I have been here.

Because, if there is anything I have learned in the past year, it’s how much my emotional health, my definition of personal contentment is intertwined with the support of the people around me--my biggest cheerleaders even through the worst of matches. I can’t be far from these people long to feel a twinge of emptiness. To not joke around with my closest friends, to not feel the safety of my dad’s embrace, to not be amused by my siblings’ quirks, to not hear the laughter of my little cousin…feels like an important part of myself is missing.

What I have realized here is that long periods of time spent away from home are not really the ideal for me. I do love travel, even alone, but I’d be lying if I said that traveling without the familiar around me doesn’t get lonely. While travel is often a personal experience, I wish there was a way to carry all the people I love inside my pocket, taking them along with me to the distant corners of the world to share, to laugh, and to exchange confused faces with at all my new travel experiences.

I really miss you guys…and the smell of corn.

How I most likely caught tapeworm

See, I love meat. A lot. A meal without meat doesn't taste quite as fulfilling to me. My mouth even waters when I see red meat at the supermarket (something I always remind my roommate, Amy, who looks at me with the what's wrong with you face I have come so accustomed to). But my love for meat has waned since I have been in Vietnam because after seeing how meat is sold and handled here, I am traumatized, to say the least.

Meat is sold outside, like everything else here. Placed on a bloody table in an outside market and hung on metal hooks, the rare meat is exposed to all the dust, smoke fumes from passing motorbikes, and just general dirtiness that is bountiful in in this country. The meat sold also sits in the tropical heat all day, with flies and all types of unseen bugs swarming all over.

Hot pile of cow stomach

Maybe even more unappetizing is how meat is handled. Passerbyers interested in a piece of meat just come up to the meat stand and poke, grab, and hold the meat. And it isn't just one person prodding, but a whole mess of people who don't even wash their hands before or after.
Of course, there are also animal parts on full display here that we don't normally find in the supermarket. As game as I usually am to try "exotic" foods, I think I'll save my cravings for cow tails, feet, and entrails for another day.


And the primary reason why I may become a vegetarian while here?
This meat market (and many others I have seen) doubly functions as a veterinary "hospital" for cats and dogs. YEAH....

Soothing my bites

Mosquito bites suck. They itch like crazy and of course, my lack of self-control and unnaturally thin skin has led to the total scarring of my legs. My family regularly asks me if I'm embarrassed by my scarred legs. Uhh..not really? And then they ask me again and again and even strangers I meet on the street ask me what happened to my legs. Of course, then, I'm starting to feel a bit self-conscious about them (but they itch so bad! and they don't look that bad to me). So to prevent further scarring and awkward questioning from family/strangers (which, btw, is such a Vietnamese thing to comment on others' embarrassing physical ailments, right in front of them), I've employed a new method:

Putting my Berkeley mind at work people...

Saigon by xe lam

A really cool way to see the city from a local's point of view is to take a ride on a xe lam. I'm not sure what they're called in English, but they're basically these little metal covered wagons that function as buses over here. People hop on and off of these (while still moving!) to get around the city. And when you want to get off, just knock on the roof of the bus and yell to the driver where you want to get off. The #46 goes to the center of Saigon and passes right by my family's place in District 8. Perfect. It's a neat, interesting way to go around the city and also very cheap--only 3,000 a ticket, less than 20 cents.

Travel conversations with my mom

Traveling with my mom is a learning experience...in patience. Here are just some of the typical conversations we usually have while traveling together:

Sightseeing on the bus:

Mom: Look, mountains.
Me: Yeah, I see them.
(a few moments later)
Mom: A river.
Me: uh huh.
Mom: fields.
Me: Got it.
Mom: Water buffaloes.
Me: Okay, I got it.
Mom: Houses...you see them?
Me: Yes, Mom, I see them! Geez...

Taking a picture:

Mom: You see that statue??! Take a picture of it.
Me: (looks at an ugly bronze statue)...I don't want to take a picture of it.
Mom: Take a picture!!
Me: I don't want to! It's ugly!
Mom: What's wrong with you?! Take a picture of it! If not, then take a picture of me with it.
Me: It's way to dark anyways. The sun is in the other direction.
Mom: Just take it!
(Mom stands next to the ugly statue)
Me: Well, at least smile. (takes picture)
Mom: Let me see it...(show her the picture)...That picture is ugly! Why is it so dark?
Me:......

Waiting:

Mom: It's almost time. Let's go down to the lobby and wait.
Me: We have like 20 minutes. Let's just sit here.
Mom: No! We're going to be late! You hear all the noise outside? It's everyone going down.
Me: I don't hear anything!
Mom: Let's go down!
Me: Okay!! Geez...
(go down to lobby and not a single soul is down there)
Me: I told you! We're way too early.
Mom: (shakes her head as if to disregard my remark)
Me: (frustratingly look at my hands for 10 minutes to pass the time)
Fellow tour traveler: (to my mom) Wow, you are always early!
Mom: (smiles in pride)
Me: (sigh to myself and go back to looking at my hands for another 10 minutes)

Nagging:

Mom: Wear your hat.
Me: I don't want to (because it'll mess up my hair)
Mom: Wear it! It's really sunny!
Me: I don't need it!
Mom: Yes, you do! You don't want to get burned!
Me: I'm not going to get burned.
Mom: You know, if your face gets burned it's going to become dark and your whole life will be ruined.
Me:.......

Mom: (on bus for a 3 hour ride) I need to go to the bathroom.
Me: You just went 10 minutes ago.

Mom: (in the hotel, snacking on fruits) My stomach hurts.
Me: Well, stop eating. It'll make it worse.
Mom: (continues eating)
Me: Stop eating!
(about 20 minutes later)
Mom: My stomach really hurts.
Me: Well, yeah. You finished that whole bag of fruits yourself.

Typical banter. But in all honestly, I really wouldn't appreciate traveling around Vietnam if I went with anyone else other than my mom. She's always surprising me with stories of certain places she's been to, filling in details of my family history, and looking after me to make sure I don't get my stuff stolen. Even though she irks me a lot with her nagging, her need to be 20 minutes early for everything, she's actually good company to have on this trip. Also, Tammy's gone and she's all I have here now. So yeah...I'll admit it if you're reading this...but miss you Tammy (You're still a loser, though).

(Mom, melting in the Vietnamese heat)

World Cup fever

Like nearly every other country in the world right now, Vietnam is in a frenzy over the World Cup. It's hard to walk anywhere at night and not hear those annoying vuvuzelas and wild cheers coming from the homes of millions of people hooked to the television sets to watch the game. You could ride around Saigon and know when a goal was made--the whole city literally erupts in cheers (minus the Paraguay vs North Korea game. That game was just painful to watch). The next day, it is common to hear people begin their morning greeting with, "Did you watch the game last night?"

It's all very interesting to me, as a complete outsider to this "football culture" that every country seems to be obsessed except our own. I will admit that I have become kind of sucked into it myself. I have been getting lessons on football rules from my cousin, Chanh, whose a football fanatic and whenever I can, try to stay up late to watch a game.

On this day, Argentina and Germany were playing and I happened to be in the middle of Saigon to catch a public viewing. Hundreds of people gathered at this field to watch on a big screen monitor.
Those willing to pay to park went inside the field to watch and those who didn't, stayed on their motorbikes to watch on the outside. I loved the fixed concentration they have on their faces.
The atmosphere was a celebratory one, with people of all kinds all bunched together to watch, mingle, and eat in between goals. It didn't really seem to matter which side people were cheering for (unless they were betting). It was more the gathering of people that lent to the fun mood.

With the World Cup ending soon, this World Cup fever is at its high point and all I can say is...Go Netherlands!

(I am currently in Central Vietnam with limited access to the internet so if I don't update, it's for that reason. Also, sneaky venues to getting on Facebook have been getting shut down so I haven't been able to go on for a while.)

Happy Fourth of July!

On this 4th of July, I would just like to say that I am glad to come from a country where bribery isn't the name of the game and a stable means of success, unlike other countries (ahem, ahem).

And a country with reliable access to toilet...and where the sewage system doesn't overflow into the streets every time it rains...with pretty decent customer service...where all my friends are...I'm feeling homesick guys. :P

Have a good (and safe) one and watch those fireworks for me!

(Taken at a famous temple in My Tho)

Clothes shopping in Saigon

I came here thinking that this was going to be a haven to buy cheap clothes, thinking that since everything seems to be made here nowadays, these clothes should be easy to find. This has not exactly been the case. The thing is that clothes made here for stores like Forever 21, Gap, or Northface are not sold here. Everything is shipped out to the U.S. and European countries, making it difficult and frustrating for people like my young cousins to find. What they do have here in abundance is clothes made here or imported from China.

And these clothes are...to put it lightly, not exactly my style. To put it bluntly (because who cares), they are tacky and borderline fugly. Too much crazy patterns, sparkles, ruffles, and of very poor quality. They're the clothes you find in those empty stores in that corner of Great Mall no one goes to named Diva or Fashion House. You pass by those stores thinking no one in their right mind would waste their money there, but you do see them at Grand Century rocking their outfits with an admirable level of confidence and high stiletto shoes. That is basically Vietnamese fashion in a nutshell--A crazy assortment of tackiness and a fierce sense of confidence that their outfit is the hottest to ever hit the block. I seriously saw a woman, in 100+ degree weather walk around Saigon in a long black velvet, low v-neck jumpsuit with white pleather 5-inch stilettos. Hair highlighted golden brown, a thick mask of makeup painted on her face--she was certainly a wonder to behold. How she managed to wear that thick jumpsuit in this awful heat left me confused, but her ability to walk around like the hottest shit around with makeup melting off her face is really admirable. I wish I had that self-confidence.

But, totally off-topic. Back to shopping. SO, I've been around to all different kinds of places trying to find some nice, cheap clothes. I've been to newly built malls with brand-name stores that sell American brands for inexorbitant prices (they have Papaya over here and a dress that would cost about $15 bucks over here cost $100 over there...ridiculous!) and outside markets that also charge a ridiculous amount (because I'm a foreigner) for some ugly, tacky clothes. I almost gave up shopping in Vietnam until my cousin, Vy, showed me two places for foreigners to shop for some cute and cheap finds.


Place #1--The Russian Market (Cho Nga)
I didn't know that Vietnam is home to a pretty sizable Russian population here (and in Russia), which is a remnant of Russia's Soviet Union past and its influence on Communist Vietnam, especially during the early days. The Russian Market represents this influence. Most of the sellers here have some connection to Russia, either having lived there and returned back to set up shop or they have relatives over there who send them merchandise from Russia. The merchandise sold here is made in Vietnam, but exported to Russia. Somehow (and possibly through illegal means), these merchandise got into the hands of these sellers and sold to Vietnamese (and Russian) locals living here.

What makes this market special is that it sells clothes more fitting to the Western style. The material of the clothes here is thicker and of better quality. This mall is a good place to shop for coats, especially real Northface (which are made in Vietnam) and Abercrombie and Fitch coats. Brand names are sold at a third of the price. I saw the exact same coat I bought from Abercrombie a few years ago for $150, sold here for around $30 bucks. Same coat, material, quality, and everything. The clothes here are also not that bad. I also bought a dress shirt for around $5. Bargaining is key. Pay only about 60-70% of the asking price.

The mall is relatively new, tucked away near a freeway, out of the touristy area so not much people know about it yet. Go there for deals on coats.

Place #2-Saigon Square
This place is shopping central for foreigners on the lookout for cheap clothes, knockoff designer purses, and shoes. Located near the center of the city, it was actually the home of the Russian Market a few years ago before the government moved the Russian Market to its new location. This place is just awesome. Sure, most of the "brand-name" are fake (and if real, it is stolen), but they sold very cheap. One thing on fake brand name clothes sold in Vietnam to keep in mind--I was told that companies like Gap that come here often have their designs sold to local sewing factories, who make the same thing with very similar material and sell it to foreigners at very low prices. Fake, then, doesn't mean bad quality. It's basically the same design and material, just not made by the company itself.

Like the Russian Market, it is set up like an inside flea market. For the claustrophobic, it can be a bit much. There are a crazy amount of people scrambling inside, most of which are tourists from Singapore, Philippines, and Malaysia, grabbing Kipling bags and bargaining over piles and piles of clothes. What I like about this place is that it not only has a good selection of cheap clothes, but the sellers here are a lot nicer than the ones catering to locals. Sellers catering to locals are awful and often yell at you when you bargain and don't buy. The ones here are a bit more patient, offer better customer service, and don't curse you when you leave their stall empty-handed.

Bargaining is also key here. The prices are generally cheap--$5 and below for shirts, shorts, and jeans. A bit more for designer knock-off purses and electronics. It is best to walk around and get a few for the prices of a certain item you like at more than a few stalls since they all basically seling the same merchandise.

So glad that my cousin showed me these places. I certainly know where to waste my Vietnamese money at now.

Russian Market
225 Ben Chuong Duong Street in District 1.

Saigon Square
At the intersection of Le Duan and Hai Ba Trung, right in downtown Saigon